April 14, 2021 4 min read

HOW OFTEN do you get clients complain about their lash extensions not lasting? For so long, this was a common issue with me when I first started out as a new lash tech. Are you using all the right products and following all the correct procedures but still getting those disappointing messages? I FEEL YOUR PAIN! Well today I’m going to share a few reasons you may not have thought of that can result in poor lash retention, as well as a few tips and tricks to help extend that lash life!

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 CLIENTS WITH A QUICK LASH CYCLE

Throughout your career, you will notice that some clients’ natural lashes are growing much faster than others - that’s completely normal. Let’s take it back to basics and look at the growth cycle. There are 3 main stages of hair growth:

  • Anagen: It’s an active growing stage which for eyelashes lasts approximately 30 days. 

  • Catagen: It’s a changing stage in which the hair stops growing. The dermal papilla detaches from the blood supply and the follicle shrinks back. This stage lasts approx. 2-3 weeks.

  • Telogen: It’s a resting stage in which the eyelash can stay in the follicle for up to 100 days before falling out.

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Some clients will go through the cycle much quicker than others, meaning they will naturally need their infills more frequently to keep on top of their sets. Don’t be afraid to explain to them why they need more frequent appointments. It is also worth introducing shorter infill appointments for them (30mins-1hr), so they can get their lashes topped up without needing to book a longer slot. 

A little tip to help clients with a fast growth cycle would be also to encourage them to opt for volume extensions, instead of classic sets. That way, if lashes do fall out, the gaps will be much less obvious!

IS IT YOUR FAULT?

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Lash techs often think lashes don’t last because of the faulty glue or poor lash care by the client, when in reality it is usually the lash tech’s fault! HAVE AN HONEST SELF-ASSESSMENT - it is easy to pass the buck on poor lash retention. Have a closer look at your treatment procedure to ensure you eliminate anything that can be influencing your retention.

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Here is a little retention checklist:

  1. Are the natural lashes clean? Remember, the presence of ANY makeup, oils, dust, sebum, etc. will result in bad retention! As soon as your client goes to clean their lashes in the shower, they’ll all fall off if they were attached to the dirt and NOT the natural lash!

  2. Do you control your room conditions? Keeping an eye on your room temperature and humidity will ensure that your glue is working properly! Remember that the vast majority of lash glues are happiest in temperatures between 20 - 22 Celcius (68 - 72 Fahrenheit) and humidity levels between 45-65%

  3. Does your glue suit you? Is it drying too fast to form a proper bond? Remember, STRONG glue doesn’t always equal the BEST glue for you.

  1. Bad isolation/placement - is the extension properly adhered to the natural lash? Have you got a good attachment area of at least 2mm, or it is a bit wonky and not really attached too well?

  2. Are you using enough glue? Always ensure you have enough glue on the extension for it to wrap around the extension and the natural lash - you don’t want a big blob, but you want to be able to see the glue on the extension.

 

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OILY SKIN

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!! Some things are just out of your hands! Once the client has left you to enjoy their gorgeous new set of lashes (that took you hours!) it is their responsibility to keep them looking fluffy and full. I CANNOT stress enough how important lash care is. Clients with oily skin in particular run the risk of extensions just sliding off the natural lash, so it is very important they clean their lashes often, else their retention will suffer and they lose their extensions quicker.

 

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Why would you pay £££ for lash extensions and not look after them? You wouldn’t buy a Ferrari and not clean it, am I right? I retail lash cleansing kits in my beauty room and recommend that all clients buy one before leaving, not only to ensure long lasting lashes but to keep their eyes healthy. Show your clients how to use the lash shampoo and how to properly clean their lash extensions - don’t assume they know how to do it!

GO A MILE EXTRA…

Apart from what I mentioned above, there are some extra steps you can take to nail the retention! London Lash Retention & Speed Booster will be your BFF! It is a multi-functioning product that increases retention AND speed of your work. Due to the alkalinity of the product, it opens up the lash hair cuticles and gives the glue a better surface area to grip on! 

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 Ever since I have started using this product I have seen amazing increase in retention, even on oilier skin, and would recommend it as a must-have to anyone trying to improve their lash retention! 

Another product worth mentioning is Superbonder which is loved not only by lash artists but also by clients! After applying it on a finished set, it reduces the fumes so that your client can open their eyes without any irritation - I tried it myself when having my lashes done - and wow it works a treat! Superbonder helps to polymerise the glue quicker, therefore your clients can get their lashes wet immediately after the treatment. Thanks to increased flexibility of the bonding after using this lash sealant, your retention is improved as lashes are not snapping off in the coming weeks!

I hope I have shone some light on a few reasons you may not have considered as to why your lash extensions don’t last. Keep up the amazing work! 

Written by London Lash Ambassador - Georgia Duke @bespoke_lash