GUIDE TO LONDON LASH EYELASH EXTENSIONS: CHOOSING THE RIGHT LASHES
We know how difficult it is to figure out which lash collections will be the best for you, and when you’ve FINALLY decided, then comes the next challenge - which thickness do you pick? What do the curls mean? Is it safe to use all lengths on all clients? Worry no more - we’ve put our heads down, done the research and turned that information into bite-sized chunks to help you make the right decisions for you and your clients!
LASH THICKNESSES AND WHEN TO USE THEM
Although this may seem daunting, picking your lash thickness is a lot simpler than it seems. There are specific thicknesses for volume lash sets and specific thicknesses for classic lash sets.
WHAT ARE CLASSIC LASHES?
Classiclash sets provide a more natural look for the client but give that little bit extra than just a natural lash. For every natural lash, there is a single lash attached to it to provide an extra bit of thickness and length.
Classic lashes range from 0.10 up to 0.20.
0.10 lashes are very light weight and best used for nude looks. They are also great for clients with very thin lashes who are looking to create the effect of slightly thicker and longer lashes.
0.12 lashes will give the effect of wearing light mascara. They’re very flattering and very safe on all types of lashes.
0.15 lashes are slightly thicker and will give will give a darker mascara effect - this look is still very natural but brings a little bit more drama to the eye.
0.18 are starting to become bolder and with this the lashes are a bit thicker and heavier. These you may find become the biggest thickness you can put on your clients lashes as the lash will start to become too heavy.
0.20 lashes are the heaviest lash. So because of this, only ever use them on clients who have the thickest and strongest natural lashes. They bring the ‘drama’ in terms of impact, but we really advise you proceed with caution for clients with thinner natural lashes to avoid damage.
WHAT ARE FLAT LASHES?
So these are the gifts that just keep on giving - flat lashes. Similar to classic lashes but can help those clients with short, thin lashes. They give that DRAMA your clients crave but are a lot lighter in weight. They weigh about half of that of a classic lash (0.20 flat lash is about the same weight as a 0.12 classic lash) but give a thicker lash line due to their flat bases. No more disappointing your thin lashed clients, just thick beautiful lashes all the way and NO damage.
The best part is that flat lashes are available from 0.10 up to 0.25, so you can create any lash look your clients desire!WHAT ARE VOLUME LASHES?
Volume lashes range from 0.03 up to 0.07, depending on the finishing look you are trying to achieve, will determine the thickness you choose. We’ve written a separate piece explaining which thickness and ‘D’ to use and when so be sure to have a little read for a more indepth breakdown.
0.07 are ideal for 2D up to 6D
0.06 are perfect for up to 8D
0.05 lashes sit comfortably between volume and mega volume lashes, so can be used up to 12D
0.04 lashes can be used for fans up to 19D
0.03 lashes can be used for fans up to a massive 35D!
NOW, ABOUT LASH CURLS…
There have been countless numbers of lash curls made, but only a select few have stood the test of time. The most popular and commonly used are C, CC, and D and can basically be used on most clients.
Below is a little curl guide for you to help picture what we’re talking about!
J curls provide a very natural curl - typically they are used for bottom lashes or nude looks, as - in most scenarios, they are close to the natural lash. They can often also be used for male lash looks in competitions.
B curls are also very natural. Similarly to J curls, B curls are often used for bottom lashes and nude looks. Interesting fact, in Japan it’s very fashionable to have a full set of lashes with B curls. D curls are a great go-to for client’s with super curly natural lashes as they can be placed on the bottom of the lash so that they don’t become annoying by touching the eyelid but provide that extra bit of volume.
C curls are one of the more popular and widely used curls. They are often the best suited for inner corners and are flattering on almost every client, giving that extra lift, but not being too much.
CC curls are used in a very similar way - It’s flattering on everyone, it’s not too overly curly so that when it begins to grow out it becomes annoying, nor is it too flat that it looks strange as it grows out. Try mixing C and CC across the eye for the best results!
D curls are another regular on a lash trolley. D curls are the answer to all your clients with downward growing lashes problems, to give that extra lift they crave. Top tip, do not use these on naturally very curly lashes as they run the risk of touching the eyelid as they grow out and start to become irritating.
M curl is the newbie on the block bringing ALL the drama. Bringing those super dramatic extreme cat eye sets we all know and love! Due to their shape having a flat base and a sharp jut upwards, it can give clients with downward growing lashes a nice dramatic finish too!
L curls have been around for a relatively long time. They are similar to M curl in that they are great for dramatic and extreme cat eye looks, making them great for downward growing lashes to give that extra lift. They have a flat base that shoots upwards but have slightly more of a curve to them than M curls.
...A NOTE ABOUT LASH LENGTHS
The general rule of thumb is to not give more than 2mm extra to that of the natural lash. It’s also good to remember that you don’t have to go longer than the natural lashes! Sometimes it’s nice not to, and instead just give a fuller, fluffier look by using shorter lashes in your lash set.
However, when creating spikes for Kim K or wispy sets, breaking this rule is okay - having just a few extensions that are that bit longer can be safe, just make sure that you are always looking after your clients' lashes first.