Let's Talk About Lash Extensions & Eye Shapes

There are so many factors to consider when it comes to which lash mapping to pick for each client, but to start off, let’s discuss the basic approach for which eyelash extensions suit which eye shapes. We say ‘basic’ here because one client may have multiple of these features, so it will be up to you to decide which styling to pick based on the most prominent of these features as well as considering what they want to achieve, but, today we are going to discuss the Lash Tech basic approach of recognising a client’s eye shape during a consultation, and which lash extension style they should recommend for their client.

As you know, there are new and different lash trends popping up all the time so not every style will fit every client. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but always try to approach a client consultation with an educated discussion of what is suitable, what may be difficult to achieve, or what will look nice for them based on their unique face and eye shape.

Eye Shapes

Eye shape and eyelash extensions is an important topic. Every client will be different and the same lash map can look entirely different on one client compared to another simply due to their eye shape. Of course, there may be clients who have multiple of these eye traits. Monolid clients may have upturned or downturned eyes; bulbous eyes may be narrow or round, or even hooded round eyes with a downturn shape. 

We have compiled a chart which cross references suitable lash styles for different eye shapes to help you select the best lash mapping for each client, but consider that  it should be based on your professional opinion as to what will suit your client. So, how do you go about picking the best lash extensions based on their shape, size and distance of their eyes?

Eye Shapes and Lash Styles

Round Eyes -  Round eyes does not automatically mean large eyes. With round eyes, it’s best to go for Squirrel or Cat lash styles. The lifting effect of Cat style will be very complementary to round eyes as it will elongate the eye, and with the lifting effect it will create a more Almond appearance. Squirrel is also a go-to for most Lash Artists as it can give the lifting appearance of a Cat Eye and similarly lifts the outer corners of round eyes but has a more framing and eye opening effect. Squirrel styling is as close to a universally flattering style as you can get with lash extensions.

Bulbous Eyes -  When working on Bulbous eyes, you can consider similar points to when you are styling round eyes. Aim for styles which will complement and balance a very round eye, but consider that a lash extension style can give bulbous eyes a nice appearance without taking away from their big and beautiful size. By using a Cat style, Bulbous eyes will appear lifted and have the appearance of Almond or Upturned eyes without taking away from their size. Squirrel also plays into this purpose, the framing effect of Squirrel will provide a lift but also give the eyes a nice round framing and opening them up.

TOP TIP: other than styling, the most important thing to consider when lashing a client with bulbous eyes is that they can often struggle to close their eyes completely so will be more susceptible to chemical burns. Check with a Lash Mirror to ensure that their eyes are completely closed and if they are not, try using Foam Tape for them instead of Eyepatches, or try using an Eyelid Strip to keep their eyes closed, as detailed in this blog post.

Almond Eyes -  The complimentary styles for Almond eyes are plentiful. Cat, Dolly, Squirrel or Natural eyelash extensions will suit Almond eyes exceptionally well. Having a natural cat eye appearance, Almond eyes will suit Cat Eye perfectly well as this style will give a further lift to the outer corners. Dolly and Squirrel are beautiful styles to frame the eyes too. Dolly will give an eye opening look, while  Squirrel is a style which will frame the eyes, opening them up but also providing a little drama with a lifting effect. 

Natural lashes are perfect for Almond eyes as the shape is complementary for something subtle but can also be used for a lash set which is dramatic and bold. Using Mayfair Eyelash Extensions with a Natural lash map is perfect for Almond eyes, as the lashes will give a bold and dark appearance which will accentuate the client’s eyes.

Narrow Eyes -  When it comes to clients with Narrow eyes you are looking for an effect which doesn’t elongate them further, but rather balances the narrow effect. Therefore, Dolly, Natural and Squirrel are suitable lash styles for these types of eyes. As mentioned before, Dolly and Squirrel will frame the eyes nicely, Dolly in particular giving a wide-eyed opening effect. 

Squirrel will provide an added lift for those clients who desire the outer corner lift of Cat but will not be suited for the Cat style which will accentuate the narrow look and further set the eyes apart. Natural mapping is perfect for clients who are looking for something demure but still want the appearance of full and dense eyelashes. For added boldness why not use Flat Lashes for a Classic lash look which will be super lightweight with a full and bold finish.

Upturned Eyes -  Here the most suitable styles would be Squirrel, Cat and Natural. While a Natural lash style will accentuate the lift of Upturned eyes, Squirrel and Cat will add that desired drama. Squirrel is a lifting lash style and frames the client’s eyes with density and volume, while a Cat style will provide a much more dramatic look. As the eyes are already angled upwards at the ends, be careful when selecting curls to not use something too dramatic – a C or CC Curl would be very complementary on clients with upturned eyes.

Downturned Eyes -  Unlike Upturned eyes, for clients with Downturned eyes are less likely to look as nice with Cat style lashes. Here you can use Squirrel for that desired lift and why not mix lash curls, L or M Curl lashes for the outer corners can be bold and dramatic. Dolly style is ideal for Downturned eyes as they will give the client a very nice eye opening look taking away from any downward turn in the outer corners and creating a more even eye shape. And of course, a very suited style would be Natural. A beautiful lift with a C or CC Curl lashes will provide the client with a Natural style, a beautiful fluffy lash set framing their eyes with a nice bold even lash line.

If your client has downturned eyes and really would love a Cat Eye, be mindful of the lengths and curls you’re choosing – lashes that are too long with a softer curl can give the eyes a drooping appearance. Choose shorter lashes in a curl such as Extreme L to give the required lift to those outer corner lashes.

Hooded / Monolid Eyes -  For clients with Hooded or Monolid eyes it is important to note that here you can use Cat, Squirrel, Dolly or Natural style lashes. The decision should be made based on how big or small the client’s eyes are, the distance between them, and all of the usual other factors you’d consider – are they in need of a lift? Are their eyes wide set or narrow, deep set or bulbous? Depending on the shape, size and distance of the client’s eyes the suitable styles will be down to your and your client’s opinion and desires.

When it comes to hooded or monolid eyes the main thing to consider is the length and curl of the lashes and how they will interact with the client’s eyelids when they open their eyes – pick a softer curl in a slightly long length than you might normally to ensure that the lashes aren’t getting trapped under their eyelids and aren’t tickling their brow bone.

Of course, not everyone with a specific eye shape will suit every single lash style so it is important to note what works best and what doesn’t for your clients. Consulting with clients and understanding their desires is just as important as choosing the ‘correct’ shape. If a client wants a Cat style but their eye shape is clearly unsuited, offer a Squirrel and explain why it will look better for them, or think about which lengths and curls you could choose to make the look work better for them. If a client wants a more accentuating and eye opening look and they wouldn’t suit Dolly, show them some examples of the styles which would suit them better. Depending on your client’s wants when it comes to density and volume, accommodate their needs and create stunning and suitable lash styles each and every time. Lastly, feel free to read our Blog Post section here, to find out more lash styles and new trending lash maps which enter the eyelash extensions world consistently.